FRUKU B0B - DIY Build
While there are many 808 Kick modules on the market, none are quite like the B0B from FRUKU, a designer out of the Netherlands. The B0B is FRUKU’s first solo module and all we can say is that it packs one hell of a punch.
Now, you might be asking yourself, where have you heard the name FRUKU before? A few months back, we built and featured the Veratrum, a new module by Reverse Landfill and guess who… FRUKU!
The B0B is unique in that even though it is an 808 kick drum, it has a clipping parameter that accepts CV to control the amount of grit you want to add. The module features a decay, tone and volume pot as well. It’s black panel mimics that of the Veratrum and a lot of the modules produced by our friends at Reverse Landfill.
Links and more links…
Below are a series of links that have been provided by FRUKU to help assist with the use, building and buying of the B0B.
Of course, we are here for you as well if you have any questions while building the module. Just hit us up on our Contact Page.
Let’s get on with the build…
When we first opened up the kit, we took notice that each resistor, cap and diode was methodically labeled and packaged. This is something that few manufacturers take the time to do for their customers and it is GREATLY appreciated. Start by separating out all of the components and start open up your build guide or BOM for assistance. The resistors are up first and you can place them in any direction as long as they are “standing up”. Polarity doesn’t matter like the next placed components, diodes.
After mounting the resistors and tacking everything into place, sort out your diodes and pay attention to the black stripe on each. This notates the negative side of the diode and it has to match the screen print on the PCB in order to function correctly. Once place, tack them down and be careful not to leave the iron on the component lead for very long. You can short the part if too much heat is applied.
IC Socket and Power Header
Next up is the IC socket and the power header. These have to match the print on the PCB accordingly. An easy way to mount these and keep everything in line is to place a blob of solder on one pad and then heat the blob up as you gently push the component into its final resting place. Finish up soldering everything into place once the piece is where it needs to be.
FRUKU B0B - Time Lapse Build
Capacitors and Transistors
Now solder the capacitors, make sure and double check the BOM for the values and placement. You will also want to take notice of the positive and negative side of the electrolytic capacitors. If you accidentally mount them in reverse, you might as well order up some new parts and hope you didn’t toast the module. After completing the caps, the transistors are up next.
As with the electrolytic caps, the transistors have an orientation as well and it is very important that you match them up with the print on the PCB. Transistors have 3 legs that are very close together and you will want to solder one leg at a time with minimal heat moving from one transistor to the next. Clip all the legs and leads after you have completed soldering these into place.
For the final component on the backside of the PCB, we need to build a vactrol. This is done by butting up the LED and the LDR. After placing these two parts together (head to head), we used heat shrink to close out the surrounding lights.
Please note that the long leg of the LED goes into the LED ( + ) hole and the short leg of the LED into the LED ( – ) hole. Once this is done, tack everything down and take a break … it is time to flip the board and work on the controls.
Potentiometers, jacks and the LED
Flip the PCB and insert the potentiometers into the PCB, noting that not all potentiometers have the same value. Make sure to check the BOM for correct values and placement.
While you are here, go ahead and insert the jacks and the LED, but do not solder everything yet. You can tack down the ground pin of the jacks if you want to keep things in place prior to placing the panel on the control components.
After you have everything mounted on the PCB, gently place the panel over the parts and hand tighten a few nuts onto the jacks and pots. This will hold everything in place as you flip the PCB over and solder everything down.
FRUKU B0B - Build Gallery
The knobs and IC are the last few parts that are needed to complete the B0B module. We used our IC tool to make sure the legs were at a 90 degree angle prior to placing the chip. When you install the IC, you want to ensure that the notch matches the IC socket and the PCB.
Last up are the knobs. The kit contains x3 black Davies 1900H clones and one larger clear knob for the decay pot. Gently press the knobs onto the potentiometers and use a small screw driver to tighten them into place. Just make sure you have the pot turned all the way counter-clockwise to make lining up the knobs easier.
When you have completed this step… pat yourself on the back, you just finished building the FRUKU B0B module!
Our Final Thoughts and Audio Demo…
The FRUKU B0B is a basic drum module with some grit. It’s real sweet spot is with the decay knob and fine tuning you can do with the CV input. As you can see with the audio demo, you can trigger it with a manual trigger or any other type of clock/gate/envelope you throw at it. The volume knob is kinda pointless to us, because we like things loud.
Visually, B0B models itself after the Reverse Landfill modules. It’s black panel with unique decor and clear knob/s bring a mystique to the module. As for the build, it wasn’t a difficult one and any intermediate builder could take this on. If you are a novice builder, take your time and do one thing at a time. Make sure you can read a BOM or be able to identify components easily prior to jumping in. When we were all said and done with B0B, we knew that the FRUKU modules are going to be “must-have” modules in our studio.
FRUKU has 2 other modules at the time of this review/build and we cannot wait to get them built and see what they can do!